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Has spring sprung? We were still in the throes of so-called winter in SoCal when we visited Studio at Montage Laguna Beach. With cold bursts of rain gusting in from the ocean, we were following a hot tip regarding the recently revamped vegetarian tasting menu engineered by chef Benjamin Martinek, who has assumed the role of executive chef, after the departure of chef Craig Strong.
Originally from the small town of Ward, Colorado – 14 miles west of Boulder – Martinek discovered his calling as a teenager flipping burgers at the recently closed Millsite Inn. He has served the restaurants at Montage in various capacities for nine years. Martinek was executive sous chef at the all-day option The Loft, followed by three years as sous chef to chef Strong at Studio. He collaborated with Strong to create the original vegetarian tasting menu but determined to mastermind his own version, which debuted two months ago.
Martinek says the new menu is “vegan ‘til the cheese course… (the old menu) was heavy on dairy. We wanted to create a menu with plant-based protein. The goal is that guests leave full and happy.” Martinek surveys his impressive kitchen garden of handsomely constructed raised beds, just outside the rain-slashed windows of the dining room. “We use everything out there in various aspects of the menu. The garden was the inspiration for the menu.”
Make no mistake, this is an inspired, highly conceptual tasting menu. Through six courses, the meal follows the trajectory of plant life from seed to flower, fruit and back to seed again.
We are treated to the second course, “Roots and Shoots.” Subtitled “Confit Root Vegetables with Coconut Curry,” the dish arrives meticulously composed as a colorful splay of heirloom carrots, succulent cipollini onion buttons, discs of kohlrabi masquerading as scallops, tiny pickled mushrooms and edible flower blossoms all encircled by artistic lashes of golden coconut curry sauce. The “confit” is accomplished by cooking the vegetables in olive oil using the sous-vide method. They are sealed with the oil in a vacuum bag and simmered at precisely 180 degrees for 40 minutes, followed by an ice bath. The roots and onions accrue a deep vegetal richness without sacrificing essential texture. Though the chef often favors making his own curry, for this irresistibly savory sauce he sources French vadouvan curry powder from local spice purveyor Le Sanctuaire. The Thai influence of the coconut curry provides the ideal accent to the piquant medley of vegetables.
What’s next? Ask about the new paper menus embedded with wildflower seeds that guests can plant at home. As the vegetarian tasting menu is set to change with the seasons, rest assured that bold ideas are always sprouting at Studio.
COCONUT CURRY SAUCE
Sauce ingredients:
1 cup coconut oil
1 medium shallot, sliced
2 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
6 garlic cloves, rough chopped
2 Tablespoons vadouvan or golden curry powder
2 cups coconut milk
2 limes, zested and juiced
2 Tablespoons brown rice vinegar
1 Tablespoon palm sugar
1 Tablespoon tamari sauce
To taste: salt
Assembling:
In a large saucepot, heat the coconut oil over medium heat.
• Add the vegetables and cook until just tender and very aromatic.
• Add curry powder and coconut milk. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring to incorporate the oil and milk.
• Add remaining ingredients. Transfer to a blender.
• Blend on high – be careful, as the sauce is still very hot.
• Check for seasoning; adjust salt and acidity to taste.
STUDIO AT MONTAGE LAGUNA BEACH
30801 South Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach
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